Entering these restaurants, my knowledge of either of these was thin. Perhaps aiding my assessment, untainted.
In recent times, the basque have charged at the culinary scene in a manner a kin to their bulls.
The first arena, Mugaritz was impossible to find. At the end of a winding grass framed road winding up behind San Sebastian, sits this barn turned Michelin star dining room.
A little easier to find is Arzak, sitting up the hill minutes from San Sebastian.
The greeting at both establishments is genuine, smiles, questions and information proceed.
Mugaritz, presents a break from the norm, as you are lead in to the kitchen to meet and shake hands with some of the 20+ chefs. The mood is calm, clear and precise much unlike any kitchen I ever worked in.
At Arzak, once seated, the choice is clear with entrees and main at ridiculous prices the degustation is a must.
Mugaritz 's degustations are the only offers on the table, small or big, expensive or more expensive.
The feeling here is relaxed, huge space between tables and the exterior garden creates an easing backdrop.
At Arzak the ambience is a little more opulent, in comparison congested. Neighboring conversations, here, are obvious.
The fight begins and each restaurant clears and puts down in fastidious fashion, a hick-up at Mugaritz is quickly resolved.
Each course is a surprise, a guessing game and loads of fun.
Mugaritz overall delivers a subtle, earthy dining experience while Arzak turns things on with a colorful volatile mix of courses peppered with trickery.
Both meals are overwhelming and to say that one tasted better than the other is tricky.
With such attention and high prices, the restaurants are adorning the red cape and the customers desire to critique should come naturally.
The contrast between attentiveness of wait staff at greeting and end of meal was overwhelming.
Perhaps the disappointment here at both restaurants would have been more subdued had the welcoming not been so intense.
At Arzak the dining room was void of any wait staff for ten minutes as we struggled to hold our heads up, it was 1.30 am.
At Mugaritz there was no goodbye, can I get the door? thanks for coming.
Arzak has ruled the arena, evident by older staff, worn plates, tried and tested dishes but with this comes a degree of complacency and dare I say lack of innovation?
Some dishes repeated garnishes, this says to me, I cant be bothered thinking of another.
Younger in age Mugaritz was eager to impress and the enthusiasm is obvious and attractive.
Personally the food at Mugaritz was more to my liking, subtle, grounded and delicate.
Look out Arzak, Mugaritz may have just taken you by the horns.
